A day with Lako Di'a and Komodo

Komodo National Park is what the world looked like before it got busy: a scatter of islands in Indonesia's far east, UNESCO-listed and counted among the seven New Wonders of Nature, where mantas throw shadows the size of dining tables and dragons still own the ground they walk. A wilderness like this is best entered by boat, and slowly. Lako Di'a moves with the tide, dropping anchor where the sand turns pink and the sky fills with too many fruit bats to count.

Dawn
04:30

The summit before the heat

The day starts before the sun does, in honor of Padar. The climb begins in the dark, after yoga on the bow for those inclined, and lands you at the top before the heat gets you. The summit repays every step with three bays, each its own color. It's the most photographed view in Komodo, but the otherworldly feeling of standing up there simply can't be framed.

Morning
07:00

The water comes to you

By morning, the stern becomes a concierge desk for the sea. Snorkels for Pink Beach, kayaks for hidden coves, or paddleboards for those who want to test their balance with a prehistoric view. Drift above mantas flying in slow formation, or keep company with the turtles off Siaba. Most days, the water is so clear you can do your scouting from the deck.

Afternoon
11:00

Among the dragons

Midday belongs to prehistoric residents. Rangers lead the walks on Komodo and Rinca, keeping a respectful distance from dragons who've been doing this for four million years. Afterward, a picnic on Pantai Merah's blush pink sand or the sandbank at Taka Makassar. Divers tend to eat fast. Below the sandbank, the mantas are waiting to be found.

Dusk
16:00

A million wings

The evening's anchorage is chosen for the show. Off Kalong, as the light goes pink, the mangroves begin releasing thousands of fruit bats in a slow procession toward Flores. The crossing takes the better part of an hour, followed by a release of lanterns, and people go quiet for most of it.

Night
19:00

On the sail

Dinner is served on the front deck, with nothing between the table and the sky. Afterward, the boat splits into camps: bean bags and a film on the mainsail, karaoke for the brave, and bed for the honest. On a new moon, the Milky Way arrives in full, and the day ends the way it began, with everyone looking up.